Cookies Are Not Causation

He Who Will Not Be Ignored will not eat M&M cookies; he believes that they make him sick. It’s not a decision he arrived at arbitrarily, it is, in his mind, supported by hard evidence.

Four years ago, while driving him home from a doctor’s appointment, I offered to buy He Who a cookie as a reward for good behavior both at school and the doctor’s office. We stopped at a local farm stand, which is where he spotted a huge cookie studded with M&Ms. I bought it, along with some dinner fixings, and broke off a small piece for him to nibble on during the ride home, then gave him another piece after dinner.

A few hours later, he got sick to his stomach just after he fell asleep. Although this (thankfully) had never been a routine occurrence, we fell into our usual roles: She Who Must Be Obeyed cleaned him up, I stripped and washed the bedclothes. He recovered by the next morning, and by that evening he had a full appetite again. I offered him the rest of the cookie for dessert, but he refused, saying “That cookie made me sick!”

He had formulated a cause-and-effect association that was difficult to argue with. He refused those cookies for years and never got sick, therefore, he had, in his mind, isolated the cause. I used to make the same association with chocolate cake (fortunately, not all chocolate cake, just chocolate bundt cake dusted with powdered sugar) after a particularly gut-wrenching evening when I was about eight years old.

After a recent refusal of a smaller M&M cookie, I decided to test my son’s ability to reason. I purchased two cookies from the same bakery, identical except for the embedded chocolate: one had M&Ms, the other had chips. I offered him the M&M cookie first and he refused to eat it. I offered him the chip version, which he happily devoured.

“Those are the exact same cookie, except for the chocolate chips or M&Ms. Why won’t you eat the M&M cookie?” I asked.

“Because it will make me sick.” he replied.

“Did you like the cookie with chocolate chips?”

“Yes.”

“Did you like the way the cookie tasted?”

“Yes.”

“I’m going to break off a piece of each cookie from a part with no chips or M&Ms. I want you to try a bite of each piece and tell me how they taste.”

“They taste the same.”

I poured out a handful of chocolate chips and a handful of M&Ms. “Can you eat both of these?”

“Yes, I like them both.”

“So the cookie part is OK, the M&Ms are OK, and the chocolate chips are OK.”

“Yes.”

“So what makes you sick?”

“I guess it’s not the cookie.”

“You remember that I always cleaned up the mess after you got sick. I could see what you had eaten before you had stomach problems. Do you know what I saw every time?”

“No, what?”

“Hot dogs.” (There was a two-year stretch, before he became the adventurous eater who wolfs down pig’s head, where forty percent of his diet consisted of hot dogs.) “Maybe you should stop eating hot dogs, because it sems more likely that they made you sick.”

He thought a bit and replied “Maybe it wasn’t the food. Maybe I got sick from some germs, or from another kid.”

“I think you’re right,” I said. Lesson learned.

Two days ago, ten infant deaths from pertussis were reported in California, the latest in an outbreak involving 5,978 confirmed, probable and suspected cases of the disease. Although most of the infants were to young to have received the DPT vaccine, they almost certainly contracted the disease from unvaccinated family members, either children or adults.

In the face of overwhelming evidence to the contrary, parents are refusing to have their children vaccinated because they believe vaccines cause autism.

My son is not quite twelve years old, but was able, with some guidance, to disprove a false correlation. No one, with the exception of a hypothetical miffed baker, was affected by his refusal to eat M&M cookies. If dying infants aren’t evidence enough of the necessity of vaccinations, what analogy could we possibly construct to convince these “vaccine skeptics”?

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Roast Pork Loin, Turnips, Garlic, and Anchovies

What do you do when you have a huge slab of locally-raised pork loin? You consult Fergus Henderson’s The Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating for a simple preparation that will respect the pig. I had a large pork loin (part of my quarter hog delivery last month) and dinner guests due on the weekend, so I chose this roasting method.

I started with the pork. I had a seven and a half pound loin, two chopped onions, a handful of large shallots, and two leeks cut into one-inch rounds. Henderson calls for a smaller roast (five and a half pounds) with the skin still on, but I knew that the cooking time wouldn’t change. He uses only onions, but I added the leeks and shallots for a bit of extra flavor and sweetness, as well as some extra padding for the bottom of my large roasting pan.

I tossed the aromatics into the pan, placed the loin on top, and seasoned with salt and pepper.

The recipe states that the roast should cook for two and a half hours in a 425 °F oven, but I was using my oven’s convection roast setting, so I knocked the temperature down to 400 °F.

While the pork cooked, I assembled the ingredients for the side dish: twelve small turnips, peeled and chopped; about two cups of arugula, standing in for the missing turnip greens; a “handful” each of chopped curly parsley and chopped capers; a small can of anchovies in oil, drained and chopped; and an entire head of garlic, roasted and mashed.

I whisked together a “splash” of red wine vinegar and a “healthy splash” of olive oil, translating Henderson’s less than precise measurements into a two-to-one ratio of oil to vinegar. I stirred in the remaining ingredients and corrected the seasoning with some back pepper.

The roast came out of the oven and rested for twenty minutes.

During the resting period, I boiled the turnips for about fifteen minutes, until they were tender. When they were done, I tossed in the arugula to wilt.

I drained the turnips and greens, then tossed them with the garlic and anchovy dressing, just as you would dress a potato salad while the potatoes were still hot.

I sliced the loin into thick chops, using the space between the bones as guides.

To plate, I laid a chop on top of a pile of turnips.

The pork was cooked slightly past the still-pink stage that I prefer, due to my inexperience with the convection setting, but it was still tender and scented with the aromatics. Much to my surprise, the thick glaze at the bottom of the pan was ignored; I followed the recipe to the letter this time, but the next time I’ll make a jus from the pan drippings. The only thing that could have improved the pork was adding chopped bits of roasted skin, but I didn’t have that luxury.

The turnips were just like a potato salad: the vinegar cut the richness of the pork, while the anchovies and garlic added salt and sweetness. I liked them so much I wil probably use them as an accompaniment for other roasts.

This meal demonstrated what I love so much about Henderson’s cooking: a huge amount of flavor for a minimal amount of effort.

I finished this fine English roast supper with a banoffee pie, but you can find that recipe yourself.

Sources:

Pork loin: Houde Family Farm
Turnips, arugula, parsley: Drumlin Farm
Anchovies, capers: Capone Foods

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The Virtues of Restraint

Shortly after we moved into our house (which She Who Must Be Obeyed bought me for my birthday fifteen years ago), we were given a bonsai juniper as a housewarming present. Since I deal with all of the Chez Belm biology projects (carnivorous plants, herb garden, outdoor landscaping, fermented food products, tropical fish, small boy), I took on the care of the tree, using the accompanying Ask Dr. Bonsai pamphlet as a guide. The tree sat on our mantelpiece until late spring, when I decided I had better take it to an expert to improve its health.

“Dr. Bonsai” is Michael Levin, owner of Bonsai West in Littleton, MA. He recognized my tree, one of dozens that were sold at shopping mall pushcarts during the holiday season, as one that he had potted himself. “You haven’t killed it,” he commented, “which is the first step in successful bonsai care.” I nursed that tree through the following summer, and managed to acquire a few more trees between now and then. My success to kill ratio is about 50%, a number that will improve now that I know what trees are best suited to my back porch growing area.

About this time every fall I bring in my trees for a winter “tune up,” where we evaluate their overall health, work on pruning and shaping, and prepare the juniper for winter dormancy. That’s how you keep junipers alive; you leave them outdoors in a cold frame, a luxury I don’t have at home. My juniper spends it’s winter at boarding school, a bargain at $50 for the season. My original housewarming gift finally expired last fall, the victim of shock from being transplanted to a larger pot.

My second juniper is on the mend after a near-death experience. You can see the spindly growth at one end where the tree almost died off.

I managed to keep that branch alive this year, so now the tree has been moved to a lager temporary pot to promote uninhibited growth.

I brought in a jade plant grove that I had built up from random cuttings two years ago.

I had to trim it back significantly to allow branches to form in a more open pattern next spring. You can see all of the leaves that were removed piled up behind it.

Why am I blathering about miniature trees? Because working on them is teaching me lessons about patience and restraint. Nothing about caring for a bonsai happens quickly; the fastest events – new budding, soil changes – happen on a scale of weeks. You can’t just randomly cut, trim, or wire branches, you have to have a vision of what you want the final tree to look like five or ten years from now and cut accordingly. A well-formed tree has just enough growth to create the desired shape, a form that is arrived at after mercilessly paring back anything that won’t contribute to the final result.

Is this all just a metaphor for improving my cooking and plating? You decide.

Before I leave from any Bonsai West visit, I take a stroll through their garden, which is full of reminders of what I could create if I take the long view.

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Chilling Market Effects

Cold and windy today, which was reflected in the diminished variety of produce available at the market. Every vendor was intent on selling me apples and squash, although a few were attempting to fob off the last of their tomato crops as better than the hothouse versions in supermarkets. The great tomato fast begins, not to be broken until next August; it’s a good thing I put up fresh tomatoes to tide us over.

Today’s trip was mostly about supplementing what I have already planned for the week: pain d’epi, coffee cake, baby yellow potatoes, Jonagold apples, string cheese with nigella seeds and black pepper, a red bell pepper, watermelon radishes, and a conjoined yellow bell pepper. Meet Chang and Eng:

I’m not about to start a collection of vegetable oddities and join the state fair circuit – that way lies madness and pumpkins the size of Volkswagens – but I couldn’t resist buying it. Now that it’s been photographically immortalized, it’s destined for soup, a noble fate.

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80,000

Today, while loading the remaster of David Bowie’s Station to Station (the three-CD box that includes the complete 1976 Nassau Coliseum concert), I noticed that “TVC15” was song number 80,000. The decrease in the intervals between 70, 75, and 80 thousand is due to my adding a more than a few boxed sets (complete Mahler, Ninja Tune’s 20th anniversary compilation, Beatles in mono, etc.) and more of the Bach 2000 collection that I have been gradually re-tagging.

Sadly, the month I spent uploading 35 thousand songs to the lala music service was in vain. Apple purchased the company, and promptly shut them down. Rumor has it that it will be re-launched as an Apple branded subscription music service to compete with Spotify and Rhapsody. What are the chances they’ll reember the contents of my library?

The bigger question: Will I be able to devote eight hours a day for the next two years to listen to everything in the library once?

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Journeyman Revisited

We ate at Journeyman again this past Saturday, one day short of three weeks since our visit on their opening weekend. Our neighbor suggested we return, but she didn’t have to do a lot of arm-twisting to get us to come along. We enjoyed the first meal, and I was eager to see how the restaurant functioned after a few weeks of service. What follows is more of a photo essay than a review.

The first thing we noticed was a chalkboard listing some specials, which included oysters, a rabbit dish, and a cheese course. In addition to a three- and five-course menu, on Fridays and Saturdays a seven-course menu is offered, which, on our visit, included the rabbit special and the cheese course served before the dessert course. We weren’t up to a seven-course meal, so we chose the five-course menu.

Oysters: jasmine tea, lime

Fresh cold oysters topped with a jasmine tea gelée and lime zest, a refreshing starter.

Amuse

Ham rillettes with chives, served on a slice of Latvian rye. We learned that Diana, one of the chef/owners, bakes all of the bread.

October Salad

Beets, radish, carrot, tomato foam, and buttermilk zucchini dressing.

Beet risotto: mushroom, corn

Risotto with beets, sautéed chicken mushrooms (almost certainly from Parker Farm at the Union Square Farmer’s Market), and corn milk foam.

Pollack: spaghetti squash, raspberry

At first I was thrown by the raspberry sauce, but after a bite of the fish and buttery squash, I realized that it contributed a necessary acid note, an improvement over the usual lemon juice.

From the oysters through the fish we shared a bottle of Perlage Riva Moretta Prosecco.

Lamb shank: beet greens, raisins, pine nuts

From right to left: cold sliced lamb shoulder, curried eggplant, warm lamb shank, a brick of beet greens with golden raisins and pine nuts, raisin purée.

Our wine with the lamb course:

Another change from our last visit was the addition of a sommelier, who was very helpful and informative when it came from choosing from the unusual wine list.

Palate cleanser

Once again, the fabulous gin and tonic gel with cucumber sorbet and mint. It’s very likely that customers will never allow this dish to be taken off the menu.

Apple: créme brulée, brown butter

Candied crabapple, apple sorbet, crème brulée (a freeform rectangle, not an easy feat), cookie crumble, and brown butter cake.

We had a glass of bubby rosé wth dessert:

Mignardises

Chocolate sablés, rose hip panna cotta, and red bean jellies infused with lapsang souchong tea, very reminiscent of Japanese yōkan.

Digestif

A parting gift from the bar, this drink was quite a surprise. After one sip, I knew it was a Vesper, which the sommelier confirmed. We had a brief discussion about the preparation, which requires Kina Lillet (which is no longer made), and how Aperitivo Cocchi Americano is used as a substitute. It’s not often that I get to discuss James Bond drinks with an expert.

The service was greatly improved on this visit. It’s not that it was bad before, just a bit nervous, understandably so. But this time it was confident and friendly, just what I expect from a place I plan on returning to often.

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A Cooking Tip from Grant Achatz

Not long after I complained bitterly about not being able to see some of the world’s best chefs lecture at Harvard, I learned that I had been mislead about the “general lectures.” They were indeed lectures by the same chefs that would present to the students, each preceded by a ten-minute summary of the science that was taught that week. Although I had already missed the Ferran Adriá/José Andrés/Harold McGee lecture, I would be able to attend others if I was willing to show up early and deal with a long queue of the curious.

Yesterday’s lecture was by Grant Achatz of Alinea restaurant in Chicago, on “Reinventing Food Texture and Flavor.” His presentation was primarily videos from the Alinea Mosaic site (signup required), interspersed with commentary about how he arrives at ideas for recipes and food presentation. For example, he demonstrated the evolution of this dish, called simply “bean”:

The combinations of textures and flavors on the plate were arived at through a technique Achatz refers to as “flavor bouncing,” shown in this video:

The slide that followed provided a “map” of the plate, with the explanation that every spoonful should include the three center components (bean purée, pancetta chip, Guinness foam) and one of the components around the rim.

Lest this all be perceived as too cerebral, he also showed a video from his soon to open cocktail bar, Aviary:

Most of the lectures have an audience participation component, and this one was no exception. We were each given a small takeout bucket that held a plastic bag with a thin filmy liquid in it, and a container of powdery brown stuff about which I had some suspicions.

The bag was a sample of distilled essence of freshly cut grass, which is used in the restaurant as part of the service for a summer tomato dish. The smell evokes an entire series of sense memories associated with eating tomatoes at the peak of their season, which Achatz argues would make a crummy winter supermarket tomato taste better.

The other container, as I suspected, contained the dry caramel component of the “Dry Caramel, Salt” dessert that I had made for She Who Must Be Obeyed’s birthday dinner. One of Achatz’s chefs demonstrated the preparation of the dish, which deviated significantly from the cookbook method I had used. Instead of combining cooled solid caramel with maltodextrin, the chef simply piped still-warm caramel out of a pastry bag into a food processor, added the maltodextrin, and gave the ingredients a spin. The result was what we all had in our containers, which was much more homogeneous than what I had been able to prepare.

After the lecture Achatz stayed to talk, answer some questions, and sign copies of the cookbook (which was being sold outside the lecture hall). I already had a book (signed by the whole team, a special gift to the original subscribers), but I had to ask about the recipe:

“I’ve made the dry caramel, and working with the cooled pieces was like grinding up glass in my food processor. The end result tasted good, but the texture was off – it was gritty and had little chunks of varying sizes.”

“Did you use a calibrated thermometer?” he asked.

“Yup.”

“Did you overcook the caramel?”

“Nope.” (Although I might have, now that I think about it.) “But my question is about the version you just prepared. Does it work just as well with warm caramel?”

“Yes, it does. We figured that out after a while.”

“So I can save an entire day’s worth of prep if I make it again?”

“Yes, you can. You’re welcome” he laughed.

I left, went home, and when She Who asked about the lecture, all I could say was “I talked with Grant Achatz about cooking one of his recipes!”

How cool is that?

Update (added 11-16-10):

The full lecture is now available on Harvard’s YouTube page, or you can watch it here.

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Market Rebound

I‘ve learnd that my mood can make all the difference when shopping at the farmer’s market. Last week, because I wasn’t feeling well, I bought the bare essentials. Today I saw possibilities at every stand. Still not much in terms of quantity, but everything has a specific use.

I bought a long, thin ciabatta loaf for sandwiches, bagels for breakfast, leeks for stock, savoy cabbage for bangers and mash (which will incorporate last week’s spicy lamb sausage), fava beans, yellow tomatoes (both of which will be incorporated into a salad with some shaved pecorino), and hot red “lipstick” peppers for chile/lime/ginger sauce (to accompany hainan chicken rice).

The “guest merchant” this week was Vadim Akimenko, who will soon be opening his butcher shop, Akimenko Meats, in Cambridge. We talked about rare pig breeds, favorite restaurants (St. John, and Au Pied de Cochon, of course), and tasty salted pig parts. Like me, he knows the pig is a magical animal, and works to maximize the yield from every pig he handles. (Watch the video on his site to see him in action.) I can’t wait to see what he turns out at his shop.

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I Didn’t Buy a Lottery Ticket Today

Lest you think the title implies that I buy lottery tickets on other days, let me disabuse you of that notion: I don’t buy lottery tickets. Ever. I shouldn’t have to elaborate the usual statistical arguments, because this isn’t really about winning the lottery, it’s about a day full of coincidences.

I had reconnected with two old MIT classmates via Facebook, and was conducting email conversations with both of them this week. Classmate 1, Anne, was going to be in town this weekend to take care of some family business, and suggested that we meet for lunch today to get caught up (we haven’t seen each other in twenty five years). I let her pick the venue, and she chose Grendel’s Den in Harvard Square, which used to be our regular student hangout (for the usual reasons: decent food and cheap beer). Classmate 2, Jon, had mentioned to me that he would be in the area for a job interview, but didn’t mention when.

So, at 1 PM, as I was saying hello to Anne and her daughter, who should walk in but Jon, along with his son. We adjourned to a large table and proceeded to fill in the thirty year gap with broad strokes (marriages, kids, jobs, etc.). When Jon asked why I didn’t seem nearly as surprised at our all being there as he did, I explained that it wasn’t that much of a coincidence. I had planned the meeting with Anne, and he had planned to take his son to lunch after his interview, which I knew would be in Cambridge. If he was showing his son the old school haunts, the odds were high that he’d wind up at Grendel’s. And we were there at lunchtime, not some odd hour of the day.

The coincidences, however, had not run their course. The two children were quite patient with our boring reminiscences, so they were to be rewarded with ice cream when lunch was over. Anne’s first choice for ice cream was Herrell’s, but it had been closed for almost a year. The second choice, the Toscanini’s branch in the square, had been closed for at least a decade. That left us with the remaining option, which was the original Toscanini’s near MIT. I drove us all there in about ten minutes.

Toscanini’s was the store where I learned how to make ice cream, where I almost became the Ice Cream Terrorist. I was employee #1 when the store opened, and had become friends with Gus Rancatore, one of the store’s founders. Once he became the owner of an ice cream empire, he spent less time in the original store, choosing to spread his attention across his locations. Since I usually visited the store in the evening, I never saw Gus anymore. On the rare occasion when I’d run into him, we’d pick up our ongoing conversation about food and music wherever we had last left off.

But today was a Friday, and we arrived at the store as the staff was gearing up for the Friday evening rush. Gus was there, he saw me, and we dropped right back into the usual routine. We talked about the ice cream biz, this blog (“How can you blog about food? You’re not an Asian woman from New York, now living in Paris.”), and my recent experiment with prosciutto ice cream. Gus gave me two pints of new flavors he was working on to take home and taste, all very typical for us. For Jon and Anne, who watched me walk into the store and then leave with free ice cream, it looked like I had arrived for my weekly free-ice-cream-for-life pickup.

As we left, Jon said “You have to buy a lottery ticket today, this has to be one of the luckiest days of your life.” Without any knowledge of my ongoing thing with Gus, it certainly looked that way. And it still wasn’t over.

I had been introduced via email to a Fransec, blogger in Spain who writes about autism and software applications that can be used in behavioral modification programs. Before I had left for the momentous lunch gathering, I had asked him where he lived. When he told me he lived in Barcelona, I told him I was envious of his living in one of the world’s great food cities. I also mentioned I’d probably never get to eat at El Bulli (the best restaurant in the world, in Roses, near Barcelona) before it closed in 2011. Every year more than two million people try to get reservations for only eight thousand seats.

When I returned from lunch, I saw that Fransec had replied:

Ah, perhaps I can help you with this. A good friend of mine is a good friend of Ferran Adrià (the chef). If you are really interested, I can ask for a reservation for you. I know that the restaurant has some tables each week for VIP. This is not sure, of course, but I think there is a good chance that I get a table for you if you ever come here.

Who needs the lottery? I may already be a winner. Today the inherent randomness of the universe appeared to work in my favor, but as Shaekespeare put it: “All things are ready if our minds be so.”

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Bacon Dashi with Potatoes & Clams

Yesterday was bacon day. While prepping this recipe, a deliveryman handed over a big box labeled BACON, with this inside:

That’s eight pounds of bacon, made from the half hog I shared last month. I gave half of it to my neighbor, and stored the other half in the Deep Storage Facility. Bacon that good should be eaten straight up, not diluted by the other flavors I’d be working with.

This being yet another Momofuku recipe, I started with the first sub recipe, bacon dashi. I added two 3-by-6-inch pieces of konbu to eight cups of water and brought it to a simmer, then shut off the heat and let it steep for ten minutes.

I removed the konbu and added half a pound of smoky bacon, then simmered for thirty minutes.

I removed the bacon from the dashi, then chilled the broth in the fridge.

When the dashi chilled, I assembled the rest of my ingredients: a pound of fingerling potatoes (scrubbed and halved), two dozen littleneck clams (scrubbed and soaked in water to purge the sand), a quarter pound of bacon (reserved from the dashi prep and cut into batons), a bunch of scallions, a cup and a quarter of canola oil, and the chilled dashi with the solidified fat removed.

I simmered the potatoes in the dashi until they were tender, about fifteen minutes.

While the potatoes simmered, I crisped the bacon, then drained it on a paper towel.

While the potatoes simmered and the bacon crisped, I prepared scallion oil, another sub-recipe. I chopped the scallions and added them to a blender with the oil and a teaspoon of salt, puréeing until they were almost completely emulsified. I passed the mixture through a fine-mesh strainer.

I passed the strained mixture through the strainer a second time as I moved it from the measuring cup to a squeeze bottle, following Keller’s axiom of never moving a sauce from one container to another without straining it. I wound up with a bottle of brilliant green oil.

When the potatoes were tender, I removed them from the dashi, added the clams, covered the pot, and boiled them until the shells opened, about ten minutes.

I tasted the broth and corrected the seasoning with a splash of mirin to add acid and sweetness. If the broth needed salt, I would have added some light soy, but between the bacon and clams the broth was plenty salty.

I ladled the clams and potatoes into bowls, poured in the rest of the broth (leaving a bit behind as it was probably sandy), and garnished with the bacon and a ring of scallion oil.

I love good clam chowder but have never cooked it at home due to She Who Must Be Obeyed’s lactose intolerance. (She’s been a New Englander long enough, I think she should just toughen up and eat “chowdah,” but that’s not a fight I can win.) With one taste of this dish, however, I knew I had the perfect compromise. All of the classic chowder tastes were there: briny clams, buttery potatoes, smoky bacon, and the acid bite of the scallions. We didn’t miss the traditional cream base at all, in fact, She Who demanded that I put this dish into regular rotation this winter. Who am I to argue?

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