You’re Fired!

May 22, 2013 · 7 comments

Magic Swirtle Ice Cream

I knew something odd had happened when more than a few friends asked me if I had consulted with Penn Jillette on his new ice cream flavor. I know a bit about ice cream, and I’ve known Penn for decades, but this particular intersection on the Venn diagram was completely unexpected. When I realized that it had something to do with All Star Celebrity Apprentice it began to make sense.

I have never watched the show. I refused to legitimize Donald Trump’s birther/racist/lunatic ravings by watching him pontificate about being the consummate businessman, where “consummate” means “so heavily leveraged that they keep giving me money so I don’t collapse.” Penn, on the other hand, had the best of motives for appearing on the show: He was raising money for his favorite charity, Opportunity Village, and also drumming up more ticket sales for Penn & Teller at the Rio casino.

So what does ice cream have to do with “venal people clawing at stupid, soulless shit in front of the modern-day Scrooge McDuck”? The final two contestants, Penn and country singer Trace Adkins (I had to look that up), had to create and market an original ice cream flavor for the Walgreens Good & Delish product line. Whoever sold the most ice cream would win the challenge. That was something I could get behind – buying ice cream to support a charity and help a friend win.

She Who Must Be Obeyed and I located the nearest Walgreens (there are only two in our city) and proceeded to buy out their entire stock of Penn’s flavor. In order to make a fair comparison, we also bought a pint of Adkins’ flavor. Penn created Magic Swirtle, a sweet cream base with a salted chocolate swirl and miniature caramel-filled chocolate turtles. (“Swirtle” – swirl + turtle –  was coined by teammate LaToya Jackson, making her one lasting contribution to American culture.)

Magic Swirtle

It’s a nicely balanced scoop with no one flavor overpowering another. The label says the base is vanilla, but it’s faint enough that it tastes more like a sweet cream. There are plenty of turtle bits included, and you can see the detail on the shell and feet. I’m not at all concerned that we have eight more pints of the stuff; it’s been very popular at Chez Belm.

Maple Macadamia Mashup

I wish I could say the same about Adkins’ Maple Macadamia Mashup, maple ice cream with dry roasted macadamia nuts. (The name was suggested by Gary Busey, the living reminder of the need for helmet laws.)

Maple Macadamia Mashup

The ice cream doesn’t just look monochromatic, it tastes that way as well. While I give Adkins credit for using real maple syrup, it has a burnt aftertaste. Dry roasting the macadamias gives them more bite, but they still lack the snap of walnuts that are traditionally paired with maple. Consumers, at least here in New England, agree: There are still pints of this left in the Walgreens freezers.

Did Penn win? No, he did not. He had to sit across from and act respectful to a man with hair described as looking “like cotton candy made of piss.” Trump tipped his hand wen he mentioned that Penn had said “some bad things” about him (some quoted above), which revealed him to be as petty and vindictive as expected. Opportunity Village received the most money, but Adkins got the win. Penn emerged with his dignity intact and a bump in ticket sales. We all got to eat some decent ice cream. So who’s the real winner?

Trying to explain to Donal Trump that beauty and art can be more important than money is like rying to explain to Donal Trump that beauty and art can be more important than money.

- Penn Jilette, Every Day is an Atheist Holiday

7 comments

Foodie Friends Friday

April 16, 2013 · 6 comments

Tuna

There’s nothing like a dinner party to force me to dust off the cobwebs and start cooking creatively. We had attended a wonderful gathering in January – probably the best non-restaurant dinner we had enjoyed in years – so I felt it was time to reciprocate. And the bar had been raised. So here’s what I served to She Who Must Be Obeyed and six guests last Friday:

Charcuterie

Charcuterie

Finocchiona, lonza, duck prosciutto, pâté, membrillo, pickled scapes, olives, whole grain mustard.

Tuna with Hibiscus Tea and Soy Pudding

Tuna w/Hibiscus & Soy Pudding

These were single bites of English cucumber and tuna belly topped with a hibiscus/ginger/lime sphere, soy pudding (solidified soy), radish, and daikon sprout. (Recipe thanks to Tony Cascino)

Niku-Uni

Niku-Uni

A shameless lift from Takashi in New York. Shiso leaf, toasted nori, beef tenderloin with a smear of soy pudding, and fresh uni courtesy of Journeyman (who also supplied the pâté). These first two courses were served with Tokubetsu Junmai Nigori “Dreamy Clouds” sake.

 Panache of Vegetables

Panache of VegetablesClockwise from 12 o’clock position: basil gelatin, sweet corn mousse, beet foam, tomato purée, cauliflower mousse, peach granita, sliced avocado topped with almond sorbet. This is a Ferran Adriá recipe published in an obscure cookbook, a test of my ability to blend, strain, and gelatinize disparate vegetables, and a display of my awful quenelle forming skills. Served with prosecco.

Duck Breast Roulade with Corn and Morels

Duck Breast RouladeDuck breast glued into a cylinder with transglutaminase, wrapped in savoy cabbage, and cooked sous vide to medium rare, served over reduced duck stock and creamed sweet corn, topped with fresh morel mushrooms. Accompanied by a Ravenswood 2007 Big River Zinfandel.

Orange and Beet Jellies

Orang & Beet JelliesI’ve made this before, but not for this group.

Foie Gras, Strawberry, Balsamic, Pepper

Foie Gras, Strawberry, Balsamic, PepperFoie gras ice cream sandwiches made with fresh ginger snaps, strawberry, pepper, and a dot of balsamic glaze. Served with Eden ice cider.

Chocolate, Raspberry, Vanilla, Scotch

Chocolate, Raspberry, Vanilla, ScotchFlourless chocolate cake, gianduja bark, chocolate crumb, vanilla/single malt scotch ice cream, and raspberry sauce. Served with Graham’s 20 year old tawny port.

The entire group agreed that we should continue the dinners by hosting at our respective homes. I hope this doesn’t escalate into a food war. Who am I kidding? I hope this does escalate into a food war.

Postscript

I received this email the next day:

one of my social media followers saw the photos I was posting of the meal last night and guessed we were eating at Journeyman. :-) “No, no, about a block and a half from there…”

6 comments

Fwied Wabbit

March 21, 2013
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Things may be quiet here, but I assure you I have been cooking. The soups and stews that have kept us warm and fed during the Month of Endless Winter may not be blogworthy, but they have provided me with an opportunity to explore the depths of the Deep Storage Facility. I could pretend that the [...]

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Son of the Cabinet of Doctor Charcuterie*

February 9, 2013
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I had successfully prepared lonza and pancetta, the salami was underway, what else could I try to cure? A quick check of the Deep Storage Facility inventory list revealed a pair of forelegs from a half pig I ordered a few year ago. They were little more than trotters with the hocks still attached, definitely not as [...]

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A Trick of the Tail

January 28, 2013
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There’s nothing like a bracing meat pie to get you through the winter cold. My search for a traditional steak and kidney version led me to this Heston Blumenthal recipe, which struck the proper balance between fussy and overly simple. He substitutes oxtail for steak, which results in a more deeply flavored final product. Since [...]

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Bugs!

December 21, 2012

I had to move this blog to a new web host. While the migration was as painless as could be expected, there were still a few hiccups, some of which are still being manifested in these pages: There are stray characters showing up where none were present before. The behavior of the links for previous [...]

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That’s How I Roll

December 13, 2012
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I joined last year’s Charcutepalooza competition a month late, which meant that I never officially prepared duck prosciutto or guanciale, even though I had made them both previously. I also skipped over a basic panceta, choosing instead to make my own bacon, which had earned me watch list status from the local fire department. I [...]

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The Lonza in Winter

December 12, 2012
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The new batch of salami wasn’t the first addition to the curing cabinet this fall. I thought I’d ease back into charcuterie mode with something simpler from Salumi, but something that was also an improvement on one of my previous attempts. The lonza cured with orange and fennel met both of those requirements, in particular [...]

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Return to the Cabinet of Doctor Charcuterie

December 11, 2012
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Last year at this time I was furiously scrambling to complete my final entry in the Charcutepalooza competition. My lonzino and bresaola had just crossed the time/weight threshold for safe consumption, and quickly disappeared in a flurry of holiday gifts and dinner party appetizers. The salami I had made the month before took longer to [...]

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Weep No More

December 10, 2012
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If you’re a regular reader of this blog, you know that He Who Will Not Be Ignored is named after Miles Davis. What you may not know is that I’m named after Dave Brubeck. As friends sent me condolence emails after his passing last week, I was reminded that my family has its own Brubeck story. When [...]

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