Being Clever in Print

January 25, 2012 · 3 comments

A Tip in the Making

If you are a regular reader of Cook’s Illustrated, you are familiar with the front matter that precedes the recipes: a folksy editorial by Christopher Kimball, the misnamed “Notes from Readers” (it’s questions from readers), and the Quick Tips.

It’s the Tips that I find most interesting; a collection of handy hints from kitchen MacGyvers who have solved problems you didn’t know existed. Concerned about getting your iPad dirty while cooking from an on-screen recipe? Use a baby carrot as a stylus! Can’t find your rolling pin? Use a 2-lier bottle filled with water! The ideas range from the completely obvious to the outright ingenious, most employing muffin tins, ice cube trays, microwaves, ice cream scoops, and aluminum foil.

There’s at least one tip a month that I had independently discovered, which left me wondering if I could come up with an original suggestion. My eureka moment came when I was figuring out how to store a huge batch of garlic chips that had come out of my dehydrator. I had run out of the little desiccant bags that She Who Must Be Obeyed liberated from her company’s lab, and didn’t want to order them online. Remembering that uncooked rice absorbs moisture (that’s why you see it in salt shakers), I looked around for a porous package to hold a few spoonfuls, which is when I remembered the Japanese loose tea bags I use for making herb sachets.

I filled the bag with rice and tossed it in the container with my chips, which have been perfectly dry ever since.

I didn’t remember seeing a similar tip in Cook’s, so in August I submitted the idea along with the two photos in this post. In September I received a reply informing me that my tip would appear in the January/February 2012 issue. And it did:

Not quite a MacGyver feat, but I’ve already done that. Next up is a culinary application for duct tape.

3 comments

Ramen 2.0

January 19, 2012 · 2 comments

Ramen 2.0

My last attempt at making homemade ramen noodles was such an utter failure that I gave up on the idea permanently. Then I read the inaugural issue of Lucky Peach, which was devoted to all things ramen and included a new recipe for alkaline noodles as well as a revised ramen broth (which I had first heard about at David Chang’s Harvard lecture). I already had roasted pork shoulder and belly, and a new batch of broth (made with the new method), so it was time to try the noodles again.

Ramen noodles are made with alkaline salts. I had tried mixing my own for my first attempt, but the same issue of Lucky Peach also had a technique from food scientist Harold McGee for creating the alkaline component from simple baking soda. It couldn’t be simpler: spread half a cup of baking soda on a sheet pan and bake it at 250°F for half an hour. The resulting sodium carbonate is one of the two salts used in noodles, sufficient for home recipes.

I dissolved 12 grams of the baked soda in 100 grams of warm water, added another 100 grams of cold water, then stirred in 400 grams of all-purpose flour.

After five solid minutes of forceful kneading, I wrapped the dough in plastic and let it sit for 20 minutes before kneading it for another five minutes. After an hour in the fridge, I wound up with a smooth ball of dough.

I cut the dough into six pieces, cranked each piece through my pasta machine, and then passed the sheets through the pasta cutter. My cutter makes angel hair pasta, thinner than I’d prefer for noodles, but I was willing to compromise if they cooked properly. I floured the noodles and hung them on a drying rack until needed.

I prepped all of the other ingredients – broth, tare, pork belly and shoulder, naruto, nori, scallions, and slow-poached eggs – while I brought a pot of water to the boil. It was time for the moment of truth:

The noodles held together and didn’t clump into a solid mass. I gave them a quick rinse to wash off the excess starch, then added them to bowls before topping off with broth and the other components.

I’ve already commented on the broth; this was all about the noodles. They were a bit thin, a result of the cutter, so they didn’t have the chewiness I expect from ramen, but they tasted the way they should and held up in the broth. The more astute among you may have noticed that the noodles didn’t have the usual deep yellow color, which I attribute to the lack of potassium carbonate in the mix.

I consider the exercise a success, and am now confident that I can make fresh noodles on demand. I have ordered a larger pasta cutter (for spaghetti) and recently found a bottle of kansui (a solution of the alkaline salts in water), which I hope will help me fine-tune the final product. Stay tuned for ramen 3.0.

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My Best of 2011

January 13, 2012
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Once again, illness and massive cooking projects have conspired to keep me from posting my review of last year in a timely fashion. Now that I’m healthy again (both physically and possibly mentally) I expect to resume with a more regular schedule. Here’s my “best of” list for 2011: Cookbook No contest. The best cookbook [...]

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Cooking More Books

December 30, 2011
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So many cookbooks were published this year that I couldn’t pick just one or two to list as favorites, but I was able to narrow down the list to about a dozen. Here’s what I have been reading and cooking from in 2011: Modernist Cuisine: My number one pick is also the largest and most [...]

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Cut and Dried (Charcutepalooza Slight Return)

December 14, 2011
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When we last visited the Cabinet of Doctor Charcuterie, I still had bresaola and lonzino curing in it that were not quite ready to eat. By Saturday, ten days later, however, they had both lost 35 percent of their weight and had become firm to the touch. I couldn’t wait any longer, so I released [...]

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Duck, Duck, Goose (Charcutepalooza Challenge 12)

December 6, 2011
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Much to my surprise, my last Charcutepalooza post was selected by Food 52 as one of the ten best posts for the November challenge. I’m honored that my chronicles of near disaster were considered worthy of their attention. I had no time to rest on my laurels for successful salami making because there was one [...]

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The Cabinet of Doctor Charcuterie (Charcutepalooza Challenge 11)

December 1, 2011
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The November Charcutepalooza challenge was about curing, which included my old nemesis – salami – as an apprentice challenge. When I saw that lardo – which I had made successfully the first time I tried – was an advanced challenge, I thought either I got lucky with the lardo, or I really suck at making salami. [...]

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Duck Variations: Sous Vide Confit

November 23, 2011
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So many duck legs, so many possibilities… I had a dozen legs left following the completion of another duck-related project, it’s been cold outside, and I had a craving for more confit. What I didn’t have was a lot of duck fat or room to store a huge container of confited duck legs, so I [...]

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Duck Variations: Phở and Foie

November 18, 2011
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The last time I made duck sausage, I turned the trimmed leg bones into a big batch of phở broth, using a recipe I adapted from Into the Vietnamese Kitchen. I wound up with three quarts of the stuff, which sat in the Deep Storage Facility until last week, when I found myself boning out more [...]

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Bloggin’ a Food Blog

November 14, 2011
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If I got invited to a food event, then I can only assume that food blogging has hit maximum saturation. My theory’s proof was delivered in “The Food Wife,” Sunday’s episode of The Simpsons, in which Bart, Lisa, and Marge start a food blog. Homer’s love of new food experiences has been well documented throughout [...]

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