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Monthly Archives: November 2009
Birthday Dinner at Per Se
For my 50th birthday present, She Who Must Be Obeyed moved heaven and earth to obtain a reservation for two at Per Se, the New York City sister restaurant of Thoma Keller’s The French Laundry. I don’t know how she … Continue reading
The iTerrarium
I thought that my Macquarium was the finest example of what could be done with a Macintosh that had reached the end of its useful life. Then I saw the iTerrarium constructed by Paul Riddell of the Texas Triffid Ranch, … Continue reading
Fettuccine alla Carbonara
When life gives you guanciale, make fettuccine alla carbonara. Not the Olive Garden crap with cream and bacon, but the real stuff made with egg and home-cured pork. Since I had just retrieved a slab of piggy goodness from the … Continue reading
Guanciale
At the end of the post about my first attempt at curing meat, I wrote: I found two hog jowls in the Belm Research Kitchen Deep Storage Facility. Guess what’s next? What was next was making guanciale, which is done … Continue reading
Momofuku “Chicken and Egg”
Because I don’t live in New York city and because I have no connections in the New York restaurant scene, I have not had the pleasure of eating at any of chef David Chang’s Momofuku restaurants. If I could figure … Continue reading
How Not to Make a Pumpkin Pie
I don’t bake pies; I am explicitly forbidden from doing so by article seven, section four of the non-alignment treaty I signed with She Who Must Be Obeyed when we were married. Crisps, refrigerator pies, tarts: all of these are … Continue reading
Thanksgiving Traffic Control
Mark Bittman could save you from the annual Thanksgiving disaster brought about by too much food in too small a kitchen. In 101 Head Starts on the Day, he opens with an obvious suggestion: For cooks, most Thanksgiving problems are … Continue reading
Multitasker, or Multiple Unitasker?
Alton Brown’s conversion of a fire extinguisher into a smoothie maker got me thinking about unitasking devices in my own kitchen. (A digression: The fire extinguisher in that demo is a CO2 model, which is hardly ever sold for kitchen … Continue reading
And the Meat Goes On
The farmer’s market is closed, but my meat CSA continues throughout the winter. So I had to brave the near-hurricane weather to pick up this month’s share at a parking lot in Cambridge. The line of people huddled under the … Continue reading
Alton and Me
When it’s time to prepare the family Thanksgiving meal this year, I’ll start by thawing the frozen bird in cold running water the morning before. I’ll let the turkey sit in a big cooler full of a spiced brine and … Continue reading