From the category archives:

food & cooking

Looking for a Certain Ratio

March 15, 2010
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Imagine my surprise when I discovered this comment on my BLT post:
hi david,
now you’ve got me wanting a BLT! nice chicken post as well.
would you email me please. I need to ask you something.
thanks,
michael
“Michael” was Michael Ruhlman, who has been mentioned here more than a few times (seven, to be exact). How did [...]

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Chicken and Pig’s Trotter

March 12, 2010
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Even though I cooked this dish last weekend, my writing about it today makes it the perfect conclusion to the bacon trilogy (trilogies aren’t just for fantasy novels). So we’ll pretend that I used my newly-smoked bacon instead of a slab of locally produced commercial product.
I had been casting about for a recipe that would [...]

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The Mostly-Homemade BLT

March 11, 2010
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What to do with my newly-smoked bacon? Put it to the test in the vehicle designed explicitly to highlight its flavor: the bacon, lettuce, and tomato sandwich, the humble – potentially mighty – BLT. Inspired by Michael Ruhlman’s BLT From Scratch Summertime Challenege, I decided to create the ingredients myself.
Sadly, it’s March in New England, [...]

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Bacon

March 10, 2010
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Last week I indicated that the two pork bellies from my meat CSA were destined to become bacon. He Who Will Not Be Ignored expressed an interest in helping me, so it was time for a lesson about Where Food Comes From. We began with the Maple-Cured Smoked Bacon recipe from Michael Ruhlman’s Charcuterie: The [...]

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No-Knead Bread, Version 2

March 8, 2010
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My first attempt at no-knead bread was serviceable, but, as I noted at the end of the post, I felt it could be better. By the end of the week in which it sat in the fridge, the last of the dough had become so wet that it was almost unworkable. It oozed water during [...]

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Preserved Meyer Lemons

March 3, 2010
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While I was cooking lamb tagine last week, I thought this dish could be improved with some preserved lemon, which, unfortunately, I did not have. Now that the peak of winter citrus season is drawing to a close, I figured it was time to remedy the problem before I had to wait another year. I [...]

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Monthy Meat-Up

March 1, 2010
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Another month, another meat score. The people at Stillman’s have spoiled me for any other chickens. Now, when I “settle” for a Bell & Evans bird, it still tastes bland compared to the free-range version.
The rest of the delivery was hot Italian sausage, a pork loin roast, and pork cutlets. I supplemented those with a [...]

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Lamb Tagine with Apricots

February 26, 2010
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There are as many formulations of ras el hanout as there are families in Morocco,” advised my local spice vendor, “you just have to settle on a version you like.” The blend I found contained galangal, rosebuds, black pepper, ginger, cardamom, nigella, cayenne, allspice, lavender, cinnamon, cassia, coriander, mace, nutmeg, and cloves – quite the [...]

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Printing Some Dinner

February 23, 2010
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It is inevitable that 3-D printers will find applications in the kitchen, especially as they become cheaper and more ubiquitous. The geniuses at Evil Mad Scientist Laboratories have already unveiled the CandyFab 4000, a device that prints forms with sugar instead of the usual plastic resins.
Chef Homaro Cantu of Moto restaurant in Chicago has been [...]

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Meet Doctor Tony

February 22, 2010
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If you watch Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations and you are also a parent of young children (or a tragic hipster), then you recognized a reference he made in his Egypt show. While enjoying the local cuisine, he said “There’s a party in my tummy, so yummy, so yummy,” which is a line from a song [...]

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