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Author Archives: David
Per Se (Slight Return)
My dinner at Per Se ended with a tour of the kitchen, which was huge thrill for me. Now you can experience the tour – only better – with Thomas Keller himself as your guide. This video includes all of … Continue reading
In the Basement Mixing Up the Medicine
Until my recent birthday dinner, I used to tell people that the best birthday present I ever received from She Who Must Be Obeyed was a house. We signed the closing papers on November 28, 1995 – my birthday – … Continue reading
The Pancake Project
It’s not enough that my friend Michael Goudeau is a juggler, writer, and radio host. He had to up the ante in the kitchen by making cool pancakes for his kids. His new blog, The Pancake Project, documents his breakfast … Continue reading
Birthday Dinner at Per Se, Continued
After eating heavenly amuses, appetizers, and fish courses, we were only halfway through our meal, which continued with the meat courses. “BLT”: Salmon Creek Farms’ All Day Braised Pork Belly, “Pain de Campagne” Melba, Violet Artichokes, San Marzano Tomato Marmalade … Continue reading
Birthday Dinner at Per Se
For my 50th birthday present, She Who Must Be Obeyed moved heaven and earth to obtain a reservation for two at Per Se, the New York City sister restaurant of Thoma Keller’s The French Laundry. I don’t know how she … Continue reading
The iTerrarium
I thought that my Macquarium was the finest example of what could be done with a Macintosh that had reached the end of its useful life. Then I saw the iTerrarium constructed by Paul Riddell of the Texas Triffid Ranch, … Continue reading
Fettuccine alla Carbonara
When life gives you guanciale, make fettuccine alla carbonara. Not the Olive Garden crap with cream and bacon, but the real stuff made with egg and home-cured pork. Since I had just retrieved a slab of piggy goodness from the … Continue reading
Guanciale
At the end of the post about my first attempt at curing meat, I wrote: I found two hog jowls in the Belm Research Kitchen Deep Storage Facility. Guess what’s next? What was next was making guanciale, which is done … Continue reading
Momofuku “Chicken and Egg”
Because I don’t live in New York city and because I have no connections in the New York restaurant scene, I have not had the pleasure of eating at any of chef David Chang’s Momofuku restaurants. If I could figure … Continue reading
How Not to Make a Pumpkin Pie
I don’t bake pies; I am explicitly forbidden from doing so by article seven, section four of the non-alignment treaty I signed with She Who Must Be Obeyed when we were married. Crisps, refrigerator pies, tarts: all of these are … Continue reading