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Tag Archives: food
Waffling About
I was shamed into doing the cooking for this meal after being gently reminded by a London reader that I had promised to make this recipe more than a year ago. This time around I used challah instead of white … Continue reading
Shawcuterie
A good idea can start with a joke. This idea began as a bad pun, veered into the realm of speculation, and was finally implemented on a whim. In exchange for an assortment of custom spice blends, I sent my … Continue reading
Just One Fix
If the story of Momofuku is David Chang turning a ramen obsession into a series of wildly successful restaurants, then the story of Momofuku Milk Bar is Christina Tosi turning whatever she could find in the Momofuku kitchen into delicious desserts. … Continue reading
Being Clever in Print
If you are a regular reader of Cook’s Illustrated, you are familiar with the front matter that precedes the recipes: a folksy editorial by Christopher Kimball, the misnamed “Notes from Readers” (it’s questions from readers), and the Quick Tips. It’s … Continue reading
Ramen 2.0
My last attempt at making homemade ramen noodles was such an utter failure that I gave up on the idea permanently. Then I read the inaugural issue of Lucky Peach, which was devoted to all things ramen and included a … Continue reading
My Best of 2011
Once again, illness and massive cooking projects have conspired to keep me from posting my review of last year in a timely fashion. Now that I’m healthy again (both physically and possibly mentally) I expect to resume with a more … Continue reading
Cut and Dried (Charcutepalooza Slight Return)
When we last visited the Cabinet of Doctor Charcuterie, I still had bresaola and lonzino curing in it that were not quite ready to eat. By Saturday, ten days later, however, they had both lost 35 percent of their weight … Continue reading
Duck, Duck, Goose (Charcutepalooza Challenge 12)
Much to my surprise, my last Charcutepalooza post was selected by Food 52 as one of the ten best posts for the November challenge. I’m honored that my chronicles of near disaster were considered worthy of their attention. I had … Continue reading
The Cabinet of Doctor Charcuterie (Charcutepalooza Challenge 11)
The November Charcutepalooza challenge was about curing, which included my old nemesis – salami – as an apprentice challenge. When I saw that lardo – which I had made successfully the first time I tried – was an advanced challenge, I … Continue reading
Duck Variations: Sous Vide Confit
So many duck legs, so many possibilities… I had a dozen legs left following the completion of another duck-related project, it’s been cold outside, and I had a craving for more confit. What I didn’t have was a lot of … Continue reading