Cabbage Batch

July 18, 2013
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Although I grew up just outside of New York city, there are some things I never assimilated. One was the accent, another was the ubiquitous sauerkraut on hot dogs. I always thought it was nasty, foul-smelling and -tasting stuff – at least the kind that came out of a can. It wasn’t until I started […]

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That’s How I Roll

December 13, 2012
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I joined last year’s Charcutepalooza competition a month late, which meant that I never officially prepared duck prosciutto or guanciale, even though I had made them both previously. I also skipped over a basic panceta, choosing instead to make my own bacon, which had earned me watch list status from the local fire department. I […]

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The Lonza in Winter

December 12, 2012
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The new batch of salami wasn’t the first addition to the curing cabinet this fall. I thought I’d ease back into charcuterie mode with something simpler from Salumi, but something that was also an improvement on one of my previous attempts. The lonza cured with orange and fennel met both of those requirements, in particular […]

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Return to the Cabinet of Doctor Charcuterie

December 11, 2012
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Last year at this time I was furiously scrambling to complete my final entry in the Charcutepalooza competition. My lonzino and bresaola had just crossed the time/weight threshold for safe consumption, and quickly disappeared in a flurry of holiday gifts and dinner party appetizers. The salami I had made the month before took longer to […]

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Duck Variations: Sous Vide Confit

November 23, 2011
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So many duck legs, so many possibilities… I had a dozen legs left following the completion of another duck-related project, it’s been cold outside, and I had a craving for more confit. What I didn’t have was a lot of duck fat or room to store a huge container of confited duck legs, so I […]

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Duck Variations: Rillettes

May 25, 2011
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I had a brief moment of panic on the morning of the day I was serving the Sixth Annual Birthday Dinner for She Who Must Be Obeyed. What would I serve early arriving guests before the meal began? I couldn’t put out a cheese tray; I was serving a cheese course later in the meal. Ditto […]

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Duck Variations: Confit

April 20, 2011
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Charcuterie is an art that rewards patience. Brining, curing, smoking, pickling: all of these things take time, but the final results are unlike anything you can whip up in a few hours in the kitchen. Charcuterie also demands planning and consideration of ingredient seasonality. If you think far enough ahead about what and when you […]

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