Tag Archives: food

Vespers

I used to be a Catholic altar boy, long enough ago that one Mass every Sunday was still recited in Latin. The ecclesiastical Latin I had to memorize back then has been more useful than I expected, first in my … Continue reading

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Market Thaw

The days are getting longer, the temperatures are above freezing, but the arrival of locally-grown green vegetables can’t come fast enough. We don’t have many alternatives here in New England, but even buying from organic farms in Florida feels like … Continue reading

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Boston Boiled Dinner for Evacuation Day

There’s a contrarian streak in Bostonians that I find to be alternately endearing and infuriating, depending on whether I am merely observing or the recipient. Today is a day when I honor that stubbornness, taking great pleasure in referring to … Continue reading

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The Chef’s Whim

We don’t need excuses to go out for a good meal, but this announcement from Craigie on Main gave us an opportunity to correct two omissions at that restaurant: we had never experienced the late evening “Chef’s Whim” dinner, and … Continue reading

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Three Days of the Corned Beef

Today is the deadline for the Charcutepalooza March challenge: brining. The apprentice challenge – brining a whole chicken or some pork chops – is something I’ve been doing for years, so I changed it up a bit and brined duck … Continue reading

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Duck Variations: Salted Duck Legs, Green Beans, and Cornmeal Dumplings

In the introduction to this recipe from The Whole Beast, Fergus Henderson warns: This is a dish you have to think about a week ahead. That’s what I was thinking as I unpacked my case of duck legs, so I … Continue reading

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Baby’s First Hydrocolloid Kit

Today I had a revelation: My fascination with food and food chemistry began when I was a child, and it started with a toy. While my friends all begged their parents for Creepy Crawler sets, I asked for – and … Continue reading

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Shiitake Swiss Chard Soup with Hand-Cut Noodles

This is a vegetarian recipe from David Chang, the chef whose menu once proclaimed “We do not serve vegetarian-friendly items here.” It appears in the March 2011 issue of Food and Wine, in an article about Chang’s trip to a … Continue reading

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Duck Variations: Duck Legs and Carrots

The first time I spent my own money on fine dining was in August of 1980. My girlfriend was visiting on her birthday weekend and I wanted to do something special for her. Somehow I managed to score a reservation … Continue reading

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Cereal Milk

It’s rare for a cookbook recipe to tell you up front “this is really hard to make,” that’s not how you sell more cookbooks. It’s even rarer for a cookbook author to scrawl “This recipe doesn’t work” across his own … Continue reading

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