Tag Archives: cooking

Momofuku Shrimp and Grits

This is the second recipe I’ve made from what has turned out to be my favorite cookbook published this year, Momofuku by David Chang. The dish, shrimp and grits, was a milestone for Chang. As he describes it: …it was … Continue reading

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Porchetta with Roasted Fingerlings

I had forgotten about this pork dish, a Tuscan classic that She Who Must Be Obeyed and I ate on our honeymoon in Italy, back when Sylvio Berlusiconi was first running for office and not being punched in the face.When … Continue reading

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Passato di Ceci

For you non-Italians, it’s pureed chickpea soup, a recipe from Anne Burrell’s Food Network show, Secrets of a Restaurant Chef. I started by soaking a pound of dried chickpeas (ceci) in cold water overnight in the fridge. I drained and … Continue reading

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Ad Hoc Buttermilk Fried Chicken

Once a week He Who Will Not Be Ignored gets to choose the dinner menu. We usually have to steer him away from the hot dogs, pizza, buffalo wings, and sushi that are the staples of his ideal diet, but … Continue reading

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Per Se (Slight Return)

My dinner at Per Se ended with a tour of the kitchen, which was huge thrill for me. Now you can experience the tour – only better – with Thomas Keller himself as your guide. This video includes all of … Continue reading

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The Pancake Project

It’s not enough that my friend Michael Goudeau is a juggler, writer, and radio host. He had to up the ante in the kitchen by making cool pancakes for his kids. His new blog, The Pancake Project, documents his breakfast … Continue reading

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Fettuccine alla Carbonara

When life gives you guanciale, make fettuccine alla carbonara. Not the Olive Garden crap with cream and bacon, but the real stuff made with egg and home-cured pork. Since I had just retrieved a slab of piggy goodness from the … Continue reading

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Guanciale

At the end of the post about my first attempt at curing meat, I wrote: I found two hog jowls in the Belm Research Kitchen Deep Storage Facility. Guess what’s next? What was next was making guanciale, which is done … Continue reading

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Momofuku “Chicken and Egg”

Because I don’t live in New York city and because I have no connections in the New York restaurant scene, I have not had the pleasure of eating at any of chef David Chang’s Momofuku restaurants. If I could figure … Continue reading

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How Not to Make a Pumpkin Pie

I don’t bake pies; I am explicitly forbidden from doing so by article seven, section four of the non-alignment treaty I signed with She Who Must Be Obeyed when we were married. Crisps, refrigerator pies, tarts: all of these are … Continue reading

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