Tag Archives: cooking

Lunch at Bouchon

I consider myself fortunate to have eaten at Thomas Keller’s per se restaurant in New York, yet I knew that until I made the pilgrimage to Yountville, California I wouldn’t get to eat at his other restaurants, Ad Hoc and … Continue reading

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Chicken Canzanese wth Savory Polenta

You can never have too many chicken recipes, and you can always count on Cook’s Illustrated to provide you with an unending stream of chicken variations. The current May & June issue has a recipe I’d never heard of before … Continue reading

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Sous Vide Experiment 2: 48-Hour Short Ribs

I lust after the 48-Hour Short Ribs in the Momofuku cookbook, a technique that requires a long soak in the sous vide hot tub. Before committing to Chang’s recipe and possibly ruining good short ribs, I thought a test run … Continue reading

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The Triple-Threat Pork Sandwich

Once He Who Will Not Be Ignored gets an idea in his head, it’s difficult to dissuade him. We talk him out of his most extreme notions (“I’m smart enough already, so I don’t need to go to school anymore!” … Continue reading

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The Perils of Knife Ownership

Satisfied that I wouldn’t be returning the Best Client Bribe Ever, I consigned its lovely box to the trash. I retained the info sheet, which has information about the composition of the blade (VG-10 stainless steel clad with 16 layers … Continue reading

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Cooking with Tony and Friends

This week’s episode of Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations — the “Techniques Special” —may very well be the best stand-and-stir cooking show ever made. As he explains at the beginning of the show: This is an hour of instruction. It’s about … Continue reading

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Sous Vide Experiment 1: Strip Steak

I had a Sous Vide Supreme water bath, and two strip steaks I purchased from my meat CSA, so it was time to get all science-like and try a new cooking technique. Could I produce a steak that was cooked … Continue reading

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The Road to Ramen, Part III

Four recipes down, three to go, resulting in ramen for dinner. It was time to make the second crucial component. Recipe 5: Alkaline (Ramen) Noodles There are masters who walk among us, possessing the amazing ability to make noodles by … Continue reading

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The Road to Ramen, Part II

Ramen isn’t just about the noodles, it’s equally about the broth: without a decent soup base you’re left with a bowl of wet noodles. I knew the Momofuku ramen broth would be the most time-consuming of the sub-recipes, but also … Continue reading

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The Road to Ramen, Part I

I first encountered ramen noodles in college, when I was the gaijin in a suite full of Japanese students, but it wasn’t until 1985 that I learned about the real thing. My introduction to the cult of ramen was Tampopo, … Continue reading

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