Author Archives: David

The Joys of Reverse Engineering

Two years ago I attended José Andrés’ Harvard lecture on hydrocolloids. He showed this video from his research kitchen as an example of the practical applications of various gelling agents: That video has remained stuck in my head, due both to … Continue reading

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Buffalo Buffalo Buffalo Buffalo Buffalo Buffalo Buffalo Buffalo*

Every now and then He Who Will Not Be Ignored surprises me by saying something that proves not only that he does listen to me, but also that he is capable of formulating new ideas. The latest instance of this occurred while … Continue reading

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Piquant Machins

I was recently invited to a “hot foods” party, which is not to be confused with a cold dish supper. Attendees were asked to contribute a spicy dish, either hot or cold. I expected to find chili, various dips, and … Continue reading

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Raising the Steaks

There’s nothing like a database crash to make you appreciate automated blog backups. I spent the beginning of the week elbows deep in SQL tables and WordPress documentation, and am happy to report that I was able to bring the blog … Continue reading

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No Poach, Chorizo

I was looking for a recipe that incorporated the Spanish chorizo I had made when I noticed a feature in Food and Wine about “iconic chefs.” It’s hard to argue with the list, one chef chosen for each decade of … Continue reading

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Spanish Chorizo

Even though Charcutepalooza ended in December, the momentum carried me beyond the conclusion. Once you have a house full of casings, curing ingredients, and a finely-tuned curing chamber, it’s hard to stop making more charcuterie. Since I finally managed to … Continue reading

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Waffling About

I was shamed into doing the cooking for this meal after being gently reminded by a London reader that I had promised to make this recipe more than a year ago. This time around I used challah instead of white … Continue reading

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Shawcuterie

A good idea can start with a joke. This idea began as a bad pun, veered into the realm of speculation, and was finally implemented on a whim. In exchange for an assortment of custom spice blends, I sent my … Continue reading

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Continuing a Mail Order Education

Apart from the basics of handwriting, grammar, and arithmetic, my grade school education happened at home, between the pages of books my parents bought to satisfy my voracious curiosity. (And, I have always suspected, to stop me from asking them questions … Continue reading

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Just One Fix

If the story of Momofuku is David Chang turning a ramen obsession into a series of wildly successful restaurants, then the story of Momofuku Milk Bar is Christina Tosi turning whatever she could find in the Momofuku kitchen into delicious desserts. … Continue reading

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