Author Archives: David

Three Days of the Corned Beef

Today is the deadline for the Charcutepalooza March challenge: brining. The apprentice challenge – brining a whole chicken or some pork chops – is something I’ve been doing for years, so I changed it up a bit and brined duck … Continue reading

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Duck Variations: Salted Duck Legs, Green Beans, and Cornmeal Dumplings

In the introduction to this recipe from The Whole Beast, Fergus Henderson warns: This is a dish you have to think about a week ahead. That’s what I was thinking as I unpacked my case of duck legs, so I … Continue reading

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Baby’s First Hydrocolloid Kit

Today I had a revelation: My fascination with food and food chemistry began when I was a child, and it started with a toy. While my friends all begged their parents for Creepy Crawler sets, I asked for – and … Continue reading

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Shiitake Swiss Chard Soup with Hand-Cut Noodles

This is a vegetarian recipe from David Chang, the chef whose menu once proclaimed “We do not serve vegetarian-friendly items here.” It appears in the March 2011 issue of Food and Wine, in an article about Chang’s trip to a … Continue reading

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Duck Variations: Duck Legs and Carrots

The first time I spent my own money on fine dining was in August of 1980. My girlfriend was visiting on her birthday weekend and I wanted to do something special for her. Somehow I managed to score a reservation … Continue reading

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Cereal Milk

It’s rare for a cookbook recipe to tell you up front “this is really hard to make,” that’s not how you sell more cookbooks. It’s even rarer for a cookbook author to scrawl “This recipe doesn’t work” across his own … Continue reading

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Quazy Energy

Shortly after moving to a northern suburb of New York City in 1965, my new schoolmates asked me to choose a side in a classic rivalry. The Mets vs. Yankees could wait until later (I chose the Mets), they wanted … Continue reading

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Meat Popsicles

I braved the cold for the monthly meat CSA pickup, which was strangely devoid of people. Maybe I showed up at a lull, but this was the first time ever that I was able to walk up and grab my … Continue reading

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“Brick” Chicken

I was looking for something unusual to make for She Who Must Be Obeyed for a Valentine’s Day diner when I saw this recipe in Momofuku. How could I pass it up when it began with this introducton? Your goal is to … Continue reading

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Kimchi Consommé for Oysters

It took some convincing to get me to make my own kimchi, but I knew if I ever wanted to have bo ssäm that it would be a necessary ingredient. However, once we had consumed the pork shoulder in a … Continue reading

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