In the summer months I try to cook some meals that incorporate more vegetables and less meat, preferably meals made with the local market produce. I had eggs from a nearby farm, chorizo from a newly-opened Portuguese market, and a whole lot of Yukon Gold potatoes. A recipe in the recent Cook’s Illustrated promised a perfect tortilla espaÃ±ola that required considerably less olive oil than other versions I’d prepared, so it was time to give it a try.
I started with a link of chorizo, about a pound and a half of potatoes, four scallions, one small onion, olive oil, and eight eggs (look at their lovely blue-gray color).
I cut the chorizo into medium dice, finely sliced the scallions and onions, and quartered the potatoes before reducing them to a pile of 1/8 inch thick slices on a mandoline. I mixed the onions, potatoes, and half a teaspoon of salt and tossed them with four tablespoons of olive oil.
I cooked the chorizo in a tablespoon of oil until it was browned.
I added the potato/onion/oil mixture and cooked it covered over medium-low heat, stirring every five minutes until the potatoes were tender, about 25 minutes.
While the potatoes cooked, I beat together the eggs and added the scallions and another half teaspoon of salt.
I turned the cooked potatoes into the egg mixture and folded everything together until combined.
I increased the heat to medium-high, added one more teaspoon of olive oil, then returned the egg mixture to the pan, folding for about half a minute while the egg began to solidify. I reduced the heat to medium, covered the pan, and continued to cook, shaking the pan every half minute to keep everything from sticking.
To finish cooking the top I inverted a plate over the pan, and, holding on for dear life, inverted the pan/plate assembly, depositing the tortilla onto the plate cooked side up. I managed to do this without depositing the contents of the pan all over the stovetop, unlike previous flipping disasters.
After two more minutes, the tortilla was done.
I let it cool for fifteen minutes, then served it with a cherry tomato salad and some ciabatta.
It was dense, creamy, eggy â€” but not oily or heavy â€” a perfect summer meal. I saved the remaining half to serve at room temperature on a hot day â€” if we ever have one again.
Eggs from Stillman’s Farm
Scallions from Drumlin Farm
Chorizo from Sylva’s Market
Potatoes from Whole Foods